14. I love pokoras. Lahore

As you know, alcohol in Pakistan is banned. You can’t find it anywhere. And we wouldn’t even dream about it if not one police station near Chilas that welcomed us warmly one night. After Hunza we decided to hitchhike back and even though police tried to make it harder, we were stubborn saying we have no money at all. When we stopped at one of the check posts we realised there were no cars at all but fortunately one police officer decided to invite us to his kingdom. Almost 50 males live there, far from families and far from women. That’s why from time to time they kill their time drinking vodka provided by the local Chinese. We had a chance to taste this special from the pocket and we really tried our best to pretend we wouldn’t puke through the window. The atmosphere got really relaxed so the boss confessed that he’s looking for an European wife as his first one is not educated enough. We made a deal to bring him one from Poland and seeing him very content next day we left beautiful Hunza.

Night at the police station

We got our Indian visas without a problem so Lahore was our last stop in Pakistan. We were invited to a farmhouse close to Lahore in order to avoid Ashura day which basically means beating and harming yourself by knives and its celebrated by Shiya people. It would be pretty interesting actually to see how insanely devoted Muslims can be but we avoided a hell of chaos and traffic instead. Farmhouse’s cs team included us, Pakistani-German family, French couchsurfer Daniel who has lived in Pakistan for a year, crazy man Ahmet and, the “great pokora man”, Adem. Mr Pokora owns a huge land and rules the farmers who work for him. Besides that, he is the most laid back Pakistani I’ve ever met and he enlightens local people by donating marjana which grows literally everywhere. The funny thing is that people don’t know its magical powers, thinking it’s just some kinda weed. Our friend found the best way to use it by making the greatest pokora cakes in the world. It was sad to leave this little place where the time stopped but we had to leave in order to see famous Lahore fort.

Badshahi Mosque

There, we had a chance to hang out with Daniel and Ahmet again as our host didn’t grace us with his company giving us the keys and simply disappearing. During Wagah border ceremony we also met a nice Pakistani couchsurfer and a little weird Australian girl who could complain about literally everything. Even though she travelled alone in Iran & Pakistan her answer for a question: “what did you like the most?” was usually: “you know, ummm…I guess people were nice”. Thats it. The end of conversation. Besides that she declared she should come back to Australia to get her haircut and manicure done. Well, there are no tourists in Pakistan but the ones you meet are retarded. Our last day in Pakistan we spent with a lovely cs family who once again showed us incredible Pakistani hospitality. Going by rikshaw to the Indian border we got the last farewell by a guy who proudly demonstrated his gun through his front window with a grin. “Goodbye Pakistan, we are gonna miss you”, we thought with a tear in an eye.

Best people, best country. Last night in Lahore



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