We reached the base camp early in the morning even though we almost froze. We were first there so we could enjoy the silence and magesty of the mountains alone. The funny thing is that you can barely see Everest from there, just the tip. It was still Everest base camp though. And we got there by ourselves. That day didn’t start very well. Although we wanted to reach Dzoghla on the way to Gokyo we got only to the next village as we got very sick. The rest of the day we spent in the hotel with diarrhea and buckets next to our beds. That’s what happens when you celebrate too much. Probably it was the water though. Or the yak steak. We decided to rest the next day as well as we still weren’t able to hike. We still had our Chinese soups left so we ate them avoiding anything from the restaurant. After we got better we headed to Dughla where we had to start climbing again to get to Gokyo. On the way we met our mate Joel who accompanied us for few hours and then he headed back to Lukla. We, experienced trekkers with maps me application in our hand, accidentally took the most difficult trail that leads next to Cholatse lake and is covered with bush. The views were amazing though- no people, just mountains, lake and greenery. We finally got some piece if civilisation in Chola Pass resort where we stayed for the night.
The next day we reached Gokyo. After few hours of passing glacier we could see the blue water of the lake with enormous Gokyo peak above it. For one second I thought about climbing it but Callum and horrible wind convinced me to shut up. So after a coffee with milky water (no way you could get a real milk) we decided to go back towards Lukla. The trek that supposed to be easy didn’t really lead down but up so original 1 h to the next village took us 3. After 10 h of walking we found some lodge on the top of the mountain where almost dead we jumped to our beds. The next day was fortunately more relaxing when we reached Namche and finally had some ’normal’ food, a cup of coffee and internet. You don’t appreciate these things until you start travelling. The same goes with a good comfortable sleep, not being cold or simply having some privacy. We decided not to take a flight back from Lukla but hike for 3 more days and get a jeep in Salleri which is 7 times cheaper than a plane. In Namche we left snow peaks behind and continued our trek surrounded by trees in order to get to Jorsale where we spent the night. Next day we passed Lukla ready for new landscapes.
The trail was very different from the main Everest trek. No tourists and disturbing yaks, tiny villages, rice fields, peace and silence. In Surke where we found a nice lodge we met our Israeli friends from Gorakshep. So happy to have company again we didn’t think how it would end. Anyway, we continued the rest of the trek with them, everyone with their own pace. We stopped in beautiful Kharikola where we had a huge Dal bhat feast and few yaniv rounds. We had to forget about a nice walk down to Salleri as the trail contained probably more ups and downs than Everest trek. The people were much nicer though and we felt more welcome there. After a quite steep hike we spent a night in Taksindu where we met some other travellers. I don’t know what made the owner being so strict about Dal bhat portions (in Nepal you always get a refill) and changing the prices in the morning but we definitely had to be careful with him. The third day of the trek we got to Salleri where we booked jeeps for the next day. Even though our lodge was very small the family was wonderful and provided us the best end of Himalayan trek. It’s always sad to leave some place if you don’t know when you will be back. And even if I really wanted to come back to civilisation I felt sad leaving the place where time froze and the rhythm of life is much more peaceful.
At 4 am we gathered in front of the office waiting for jeeps. We supposed to go to Kathmandu altogether in one jeep with Israelis. Unfortunately, in the end they decided they would go alone as 8 would be more comfortable so while we were ready to go they told us to go to another jeep full of Nepalese. No goodbye, sorry, nothing. Just simple ‘fuck off, we had some fun and now you can go’. Very disappointing after so many days spent together but at least we got a lesson. Never travel with single nationality groups, especially Israelis. They care only about themselves. After about 14 hours of crushing our asses on holley roads we got to Kathmandu where we immediately started to miss fresh and clear air of the mountains.